Lady Maria Hamilton, 1802, by Thomas Lawrence.
Inquiring Reader: You’ve probably seen the necklaces dozens of times without noticing them. I have. These beautiful single string coral necklaces worn by Regency ladies escaped my attention until my friend and blogging partner on Jane Austen Today, Laurel Ann of Austenprose, sent me some spectacular images, such as the one of Lady Maria Hamilton, who died in 1814 unmarried. Coral has enjoyed a long and ancient tradition, first worn as a talisman and later for its color and beauty. One of my favorite drawings by Peter Paul Rubens depicts his son with a coral necklace. At the time coral was thought to protect the wearer.
Nicolaas Rubens Wearing a Coral Necklace, Peter Paul Rubens, Red and black chalk heightened with white and some black ink on paper, c. 1619
The tradition of giving children coral necklaces continued through the 19th century, as shown in this detail of a late 18th century John Hoppner painting of one of the Sackville girls. The gemstone was considered a guardian of sorts, protecting children from illnesses like stomachaches, fever, typhus, smallpox, and rickets. The mala beads were polished to a smooth sheen and matched in color. Bead sizes could be similar or gradated from small to larger stones that were strung in the center.
The Sackville Children, detail, John Hoppner, 1796
Handmade jewellery created during the late Georgian Era (1760-1837) is extremely hard to find today. As styles changed, the pieces were remade rather than tossed out or sold. Until the latter part of the 18th century, coral was harvested from the sea largely by dredging. Fine quality red coral came from the Mediterranean – Algeria, France, Italy, Morocco, Spain, Tunisia and the islands of Corsica, Sardinia and Sicily, with some saying that the best corals came off the coasts of Algeria and Tunisia. Eighteenth century coral was a rich warm red and is unavailable today. In fact, original antique jewellery made with dark red coral is so difficult to find that it has become a highly prized collectible.
Jane Elizabeth, Countess of Oxford, John Hoppner, 1797
Early 19th century red coral necklace
Simple round necklaces, like the one worn by the Countess of Oxford, were popular and complimented low necklines, but chokers were also fashionable, like the Georgian Cannetille Sardinian red coral four strand necklace on the left. Coral is made up of the skeletal material built up by small animals that live in slow growing colonies in the sea. Colors range from vivid orange, red, and white, to salmon and pale pink (called angelskin coral). In jewelry making coral is either carved into beads, cameos, and other forms, or is left in its natural branch-like form and simply polished. (My mother had such a necklace, which I played with as a child.) The most sought after color (and the rarest) is a deep red, as in the necklace at left. Coral manufacturing during the Regency Period consisted primarily of filing beads of smoothed coral and stringing necklaces. Because coral consists of calcium carbonate, it is extremely sensitive to chemicals, perfumes, and body acids. Like pearls, the necklaces must be washed with a damp cloth (no detergents) and restrung periodically.
Little boy placing a coral necklace on a dog's neck, Martin Drolling
Many mystical and medicinal properties were attributed to coral, among them vitality, physical strength, stronger marital relationships, wealth, increased sensuality, and protection while out to sea. Coral was also used as a medicinal powder. Primitive physics believed that coral oxides mixed with honey made a person strong. Mix it with betel leaf and it made a potent cure for cough and heart disease. Coral powder is still a popular aphrodisiac in India today, which prompts avaricious collectors to dynamite coral reefs, putting fragile reefs in acute danger. In the detail of a 17th century drawing by Jacopo Vignali at right, one can easily see why this semi-precious stone was considered to have sensual qualities. The combination of the coral necklace and her full lips make the young woman look both fragile and seductive. Thank you, Laurel Ann, for introducing me to this fascinating topic! As you can see, I got a little carried away.
More information about corals can be found in these links:
Jane Austen's World 
I love the close up of The Sackville Children. I’m not familiar with Hoppner but the detail in that painting is beautiful.
The entire painting is gorgeous Charley Brown. Hoppner’s specialty was painting children.
I did go look up the full painting! But I didn’t think the other children were captured as well (cheeks too rosy?). I’m not an art expert for sure but I liked the dreamy quality of the Sackville painting as well as the Countess of Oxford.
Thank you so much. This is a fascinating post and beautifully illustrated. I love the way that these necklaces were thought of as a talisman for children. Lovely paintings. It must have taken quite a lot of work to find them all.
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CUTE POST!
Maria Grazia
Wow Vic, you really know how to research online like a pro! I am totally amazed at what you collected. Thanks for answering all my questions about Regency coral necklaces. Nobody does it better than you!
Cheers, Laurel Ann
Gosh, how fascinating, I never knew that!
You’re right, I’ve never noticed those necklaces before. Thanks for bringing them to my attention! How interesting! I wonder why they were thought to have protective powers!
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Oooh, I like that red coral necklace!
Great post, Vic! I had no idea corals had such a significance.
The associations are fascinating and a bit mind-pausing, especially if you consider they were often put on children’s necks.
Very interesting posting,
Ellen :)
[…] Coral Necklaces, Regency Style – children wore these necklaces to ward off bad luck and for good health. Little Anne illustration, Kate Greenaway […]
Just curious, would women have worn these necklaces during the 1840’s? I am making an historical doll of Emily Dickinson in her typical white attire and she could use a pop of color, so I pondered whether coral beads would be appropriate?
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So thrilled to find this information on-line. Thank you. I have been researching coral beads necklaces for children. I had heard that in the Far East coral beads were worn by children because they changed their hue slightly when a child is with fever. This may or may not be true, but from what I have read here tonight I am feeling it is the case. Fever beads make sense to me. Pearls become more lustrous when worn, perhaps the higher temperatures of children and the oils in their skins did indeed change the colors of these pure little coral beads, while the coral we harvest from our polluted oceans now have lost the ability to do this? However I can find nothing to substantiate this.
[…] were diamonds, sapphires, rubies, emeralds, onyx, garnets, and yellow topaz. Strands of coral and pearls were also extremely […]
The tradition continues: Queen Elizabeth II, as a baby princess, and her sister Princess Margaret were both given delicate coral necklaces to wear as infants. I followed the excellent example and gave similar bead necklaces to my nieces and goddaughter…and bought one for myself. They can be found on eBay, and are not terribly expensive. If you don’t insist on a genuine Regency one, that is…
Hi there! Thanks for the insight! I like it very much. Actually, I read in books about coral necklaces and such. In Elizabeth’s Gaskell’s “North and South”, the heroine Margaret Hale wore a coral hair pin (or was it necklace?) to go to Mr Thornton’s dinner party. But the novel was written in mid 19th century, a good 30 to 40 years after Jane Austen. But I guess it’s worth mentioning since I was wondering how these things looked like anyway….:D
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Wow that was odd. I just wrote an extremely long comment but after I clicked submit my comment didn’t appear. Grrrr… well I’m not writing all that over again. Regardless, just wanted to say great blog!
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Lovely pictures! I think the Countess of Oxford is my favorite. Thanks for the informative and artistic post.
Nice Hoppner!