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Coral Necklaces, Regency Style

May 9, 2009 by Vic

Lady Maria Hamilton, 1802, by Thomas Lawrence.

Lady Maria Hamilton, 1802, by Thomas Lawrence.

Inquiring Reader: You’ve probably seen the necklaces dozens of times without noticing them. I have. These beautiful single string coral necklaces worn by Regency ladies escaped my attention until my friend and blogging partner on Jane Austen Today, Laurel Ann of Austenprose, sent me some spectacular images, such as the one of Lady Maria Hamilton, who died in 1814 unmarried. Coral has enjoyed a long and ancient tradition, first worn as a talisman and later for its color and beauty. One of my favorite drawings by Peter Paul Rubens depicts his son with a coral necklace. At the time coral was thought to protect the wearer.

Nicolaas Rubens Wearing a Coral Necklace, Peter Paul Rubens, Red and black chalk heightened with white and some black ink on paper, c. 1619

Nicolaas Rubens Wearing a Coral Necklace, Peter Paul Rubens, Red and black chalk heightened with white and some black ink on paper, c. 1619

The tradition of giving children coral necklaces continued through the 19th century, as shown in this detail of a late 18th century John Hoppner painting of one of the Sackville girls. The gemstone was considered a guardian of sorts, protecting children from illnesses like stomachaches, fever, typhus, smallpox, and rickets. The mala beads were polished to a smooth sheen and matched in color. Bead sizes could be similar or gradated from small to larger stones that were strung in the center.

The Sackville Children, detail, John Hoppner, 1796

The Sackville Children, detail, John Hoppner, 1796

Handmade jewellery created during the late Georgian Era (1760-1837) is extremely hard to find today.  As styles changed, the pieces were remade rather than tossed out or sold. Until the latter part of the 18th century, coral was harvested from the sea largely by dredging. Fine quality red coral came from the Mediterranean – Algeria, France, Italy, Morocco, Spain, Tunisia and the islands of Corsica, Sardinia and Sicily, with some saying that the best corals came off the coasts of Algeria and Tunisia. Eighteenth century coral was a rich warm red and is unavailable today. In fact, original antique jewellery made with dark red coral is so difficult to find that it has become a highly prized collectible.

Jane Elizabeth, Countess of Oxford, John Hoppner, 1797

Jane Elizabeth, Countess of Oxford, John Hoppner, 1797

Early 19th century red coral necklace

Early 19th century red coral necklace

Simple round necklaces, like the one worn by the Countess of Oxford, were popular and complimented low necklines, but chokers were also fashionable, like the Georgian Cannetille Sardinian red coral four strand necklace on the left. Coral is made up of the skeletal material built up by small animals that live in slow growing colonies in the sea. Colors range from vivid orange, red, and white, to salmon and pale pink (called angelskin coral). In jewelry making coral is either carved into beads, cameos, and other forms, or is left in its natural branch-like form and simply polished. (My mother had such a necklace, which I played with as a child.) The most sought after color (and the rarest) is a deep red, as in the necklace at left.  Coral manufacturing during the Regency Period consisted primarily of filing beads of smoothed coral and stringing necklaces. Because coral consists of calcium carbonate, it is extremely sensitive to chemicals,  perfumes, and body acids. Like pearls, the necklaces must be washed with a damp cloth (no detergents) and restrung periodically.

Little boy placing a coral necklace on a dog's neck, Martin Drolling

Little boy placing a coral necklace on a dog's neck, Martin Drolling

detail of Jacopo Vignali's Head of a Young Woman, 17th c

Many mystical and medicinal properties were attributed to coral, among them vitality, physical strength, stronger marital relationships, wealth, increased sensuality, and protection while out to sea. Coral was also used as a medicinal powder. Primitive physics believed that coral oxides mixed with honey made a person strong. Mix it with betel leaf and it made a potent cure for cough and heart disease. Coral powder is still a popular aphrodisiac in India today, which prompts avaricious collectors to dynamite coral reefs, putting fragile reefs in acute danger. In the detail of a 17th century drawing by Jacopo Vignali at right, one can easily see why this semi-precious stone was considered to have sensual qualities. The combination of the coral necklace and her full lips make the young woman look both fragile and seductive. Thank you, Laurel Ann, for introducing me to this fascinating topic! As you can see, I got a little carried away.

More information about corals can be found in these links:

  • Coral: Capri Review
  • Village Green Clothier
  • Alluring miniature portrait of French woman with coral necklace, 1820-1840
  • Wigs on the Green: Miniatures with Coral
  • Georgian Jewelry
  • Corals: RV Dietricht, 2007
  • Summer Year Long With Corals
  • Modern Jeweler: Coral
  • Antique Jewelry University: Coral

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Posted in Fashions, jane austen, Jane Austen's World, Regency Life, Regency Period, Regency style, Regency World | Tagged Coral necklace, John Hoppner, Late Georgian jewelry, Peter Paul Rubens, Regency Fashion, Regency jewellery, Regency jewelry, Sir Thomas Lawrence | 25 Comments

25 Responses

  1. on May 9, 2009 at 21:39 charleybrown

    I love the close up of The Sackville Children. I’m not familiar with Hoppner but the detail in that painting is beautiful.


  2. on May 9, 2009 at 21:55 Vic (Jane Austen's World)

    The entire painting is gorgeous Charley Brown. Hoppner’s specialty was painting children.


  3. on May 9, 2009 at 22:22 charleybrown

    I did go look up the full painting! But I didn’t think the other children were captured as well (cheeks too rosy?). I’m not an art expert for sure but I liked the dreamy quality of the Sackville painting as well as the Countess of Oxford.


  4. on May 10, 2009 at 01:42 Linda

    Thank you so much. This is a fascinating post and beautifully illustrated. I love the way that these necklaces were thought of as a talisman for children. Lovely paintings. It must have taken quite a lot of work to find them all.


  5. on May 10, 2009 at 01:56 Six Degree’s of Separation… « The Elegant Extracts Blog

    […] A: Panelist at WordCamp talks about his blog. WordCamper (i.e.: me) visits said blog. Sees link to Jane Austen’s World website. Which has links to several Jane Austen sites I link to… who, in turn link too […]


  6. on May 10, 2009 at 04:01 learnonline

    CUTE POST!
    Maria Grazia


  7. on May 10, 2009 at 05:08 Laurel Ann

    Wow Vic, you really know how to research online like a pro! I am totally amazed at what you collected. Thanks for answering all my questions about Regency coral necklaces. Nobody does it better than you!

    Cheers, Laurel Ann


  8. on May 10, 2009 at 07:51 Mrs Woffington

    Gosh, how fascinating, I never knew that!


  9. on May 10, 2009 at 19:03 ElizaWard

    You’re right, I’ve never noticed those necklaces before. Thanks for bringing them to my attention! How interesting! I wonder why they were thought to have protective powers!


  10. on May 11, 2009 at 00:18 Coral Necklaces, Regency Style « Jane Austen's World | TimeLineArts.Com

    […] Read the original: Coral Necklaces, Regency Style « Jane Austen's World […]


  11. on May 11, 2009 at 19:41 Bart

    Oooh, I like that red coral necklace!


  12. on May 13, 2009 at 13:10 Sylwia

    Great post, Vic! I had no idea corals had such a significance.


  13. on May 16, 2009 at 00:49 Ellen Moody

    The associations are fascinating and a bit mind-pausing, especially if you consider they were often put on children’s necks.

    Very interesting posting,
    Ellen :)


  14. on August 17, 2009 at 22:08 The well-dressed Regency boy wore a skeleton suit « Jane Austen’s World

    […] Coral Necklaces, Regency Style – children wore these necklaces to ward off bad luck and for good health. Little Anne illustration, Kate Greenaway […]


  15. on August 25, 2009 at 17:16 Sophie

    Just curious, would women have worn these necklaces during the 1840’s? I am making an historical doll of Emily Dickinson in her typical white attire and she could use a pop of color, so I pondered whether coral beads would be appropriate?


  16. on September 22, 2009 at 03:01 Little Girls’ Regency Dresses « Jane Austen’s World

    […] Coral Necklaces […]


  17. on January 18, 2010 at 03:29 Lisa

    So thrilled to find this information on-line. Thank you. I have been researching coral beads necklaces for children. I had heard that in the Far East coral beads were worn by children because they changed their hue slightly when a child is with fever. This may or may not be true, but from what I have read here tonight I am feeling it is the case. Fever beads make sense to me. Pearls become more lustrous when worn, perhaps the higher temperatures of children and the oils in their skins did indeed change the colors of these pure little coral beads, while the coral we harvest from our polluted oceans now have lost the ability to do this? However I can find nothing to substantiate this.


  18. on January 28, 2010 at 18:10 Regency Era Jewelry part i: An Introduction « November's Autumn

    […] were diamonds, sapphires, rubies, emeralds, onyx, garnets, and yellow topaz. Strands of coral and pearls were also extremely […]


  19. on February 9, 2010 at 04:30 Hippierockchick

    The tradition continues: Queen Elizabeth II, as a baby princess, and her sister Princess Margaret were both given delicate coral necklaces to wear as infants. I followed the excellent example and gave similar bead necklaces to my nieces and goddaughter…and bought one for myself. They can be found on eBay, and are not terribly expensive. If you don’t insist on a genuine Regency one, that is…


  20. on November 20, 2010 at 05:04 Paul

    Hi there! Thanks for the insight! I like it very much. Actually, I read in books about coral necklaces and such. In Elizabeth’s Gaskell’s “North and South”, the heroine Margaret Hale wore a coral hair pin (or was it necklace?) to go to Mr Thornton’s dinner party. But the novel was written in mid 19th century, a good 30 to 40 years after Jane Austen. But I guess it’s worth mentioning since I was wondering how these things looked like anyway….:D


  21. on November 21, 2010 at 16:38 The heaving Regency bosom, or was it? Some facts laid bare. « Jane Austen's World

    […] Coral Necklaces Regency Style […]


  22. on February 3, 2011 at 09:09 Timika Derkach

    Wow that was odd. I just wrote an extremely long comment but after I clicked submit my comment didn’t appear. Grrrr… well I’m not writing all that over again. Regardless, just wanted to say great blog!


  23. on October 15, 2011 at 10:48 Child’s Regency Dress at Vintage Textile: A Superb Vintage Clothing Site « Jane Austen's World

    […] Coral Necklaces Share with others: […]


  24. on April 16, 2012 at 19:54 Alyssa Everett

    Lovely pictures! I think the Countess of Oxford is my favorite. Thanks for the informative and artistic post.


  25. on October 28, 2012 at 14:21 segmation

    Nice Hoppner!



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