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This Jane Austen blog brings Jane Austen, her novels, and the Regency Period alive through food, dress, social customs, and other 19th C. historical details related to this topic.

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« The Breeching Ceremony of a Young Boy and His Rite of Passage: Regency Fashion
Sounds of Williamsburg »

Taking Care of a Gentleman’s Clothes: Regency Fashion

April 16, 2013 by Vic

The House Servant’s Directory: An African American Butler’s 1827 Guide by Robert Roberts is the first books written by an African American to have been published in the

Gore Place, Waltham MA

Gore Place, Waltham MA. Image @Wikipedia

United States by a major publisher. Roberts worked as a butler and major domo for Christopher Gore (a U.S. Senator and governor of Massachusetts) from 1825-1827 at Gore Place. Robert’s book, a remarkable feat, was also popular, for it was to have two more printings in 1828 and 1834. His advice gives us a glimpse into the life of an early 19th century butler.

Here are his instructions for taking care of a gentleman’s clothes:

if your gentleman’s clothes should happen to get wet or muddy, hang them out in the sun or before the fire to dry. Do not attempt to brush them when wet, or you will surely spoil them, but as soon as they are perfectly dry, take and rub them between your hands where there are any spots of mud, then hang them on your clothes horse, which you must have for the purpose; then take a rattan and give them a whipping, to take out the dust, but be careful and don’t hit the buttons, or you will be apt to break or scratch them.

Image @Wikipedia

Image @Wikipedia

He goes on to describe how one should then carefully brush the coat, starting with the back of the collar, moving to the shoulders, and then to the sleeves and cuffs.  Roberts’ instructions for folding the coat are equally meticulous and given so that “you will find the coat folded in a manner that will gain you credit from any gentleman, and will keep smooth for any journey.” Clothes, as I mentioned in an earlier post, were quite expensive, and taking care of them and keeping them in good shape was a major undertaking.

Man's suit, American. 1810-1820. Museum of Fine Art

Man’s suit, American. 1810-1820. Museum of Fine Art

Hats were another part of a gentleman’s wardrobe that required great care lest they begin to look shabby. A soft camels hair brush is the preferred instrument to brush hats with, for it will not injure fur or scratch it off. Wet hands should be handled with great care or “you will put it out of form.” Using a silk handkerchief and holding the hat carefully (hand inside and fingers extended) “rub it lightly all round, the way the fur goes”. Roberts was most likely talking about beaver hats, which were quite the rage and expensive.

Hat 1820-1830, Snowshill Manor. Image @Nationa Trust/Richard Blakey

Hat 1820-1830, Snowshill Manor. Image @Nationa Trust/Richard Blakey

There are some people that think brushing a hat while it is wet, certainly spoils it; but it is quite the contrary; for the hatters themselves always brush and finish off their hats while damp, so as to give the fur a brilliant appearance. Likewise they set them to their regular shape while damp. I have received these instructions myself, from one of the best hat manufacturers in London.”

This last statement demonstrates Roberts’s worldly and educated background. It is no wonder that his advice still holds up well today.

  • The House Servant’s Directory

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Posted in Book review, Fashions, Regency Life, Regency style, Regency World | Tagged Regency Fashion, Regency Servants, Robert Roberts, The House Servant's Directory | 8 Comments

8 Responses

  1. on April 16, 2013 at 11:55 Brenda Bigbee

    Thanks for the facinating look at the valet’s job, Vic. All your posts are so enlightening, especially to those of us who try to write books from that period.


  2. on April 16, 2013 at 11:55 Christopher Hoare

    Thanks for these kinds of posts Vic. The publisher of my, just accepted, novel set in a somewhat alternate 1814, wants me to add more details of dress during the editing…so I will be combing through all your posts of both lady’s and gentleman’s styles in the Jane Austen’s World University.

    Steaming to Romance is said to be ‘great fun’ and features Roberta, the fictional daughter of George Stephenson (called the Father of railways) who must select the best of three suitors during the race to foil Napoleon’s new attempt the invade Britain.


  3. on April 16, 2013 at 12:13 Patty

    The beaver for the hats was trapped out west and transported east. Beaver is still used for fine cowboy hats and can be very expensive for the best quality. Later on in the century, Lincoln and other men switched to silk top hats, and the trappers resorted to desperate measures……..


  4. on April 17, 2013 at 19:50 Barbara

    Fascinating post, once again, Vic. Thanks for the link to Robert Robert’s book, too!


  5. on April 17, 2013 at 23:26 Kevin L.

    Fascinating post. Thanks for this look at the American Regency!


  6. on April 18, 2013 at 00:50 Peg

    Thank you, Vic
    . Important historical evidence here for African-American documentation, but also documents every day work of servant class in general; i.e., enslaved, indentured and hired employees. And yes there was an enslaved population in the North; Phyllis Wheatley comes to mind. An illuminating insight into the period and the mechanics of every day life.


  7. on April 18, 2013 at 13:55 ellaquinnauthor

    Loved this. I’m sharing on FB, tweeted, and will reblog later. Thank you.


  8. on April 18, 2013 at 16:21 Lori Tishgart

    Always love your blog, it is always a great source of new ideas. Especially helpful are those links at the bottom for further information. Thank you so much!



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