Gentle Readers, It may please you to know that frequent contributer, Tony Grant (London Calling), lives near Richmond Park, a wilderness that has kept its pristine nature for centuries. Enjoy these beautiful photographs.
Richmond Park is situated 12 miles south west of St Pauls Cathedral in the city of London. It just happens to be two miles from where I live on the edge of Wimbledon and abuts Wimbledon Common that stretches for a few miles on the other side of the Kingston Road.
The Kingston Road is a very old road running between Kingston upon Thames and the City of London. It bisects Wimbledon Common and Richmond Park on it’s way. Jane Austen would have travelled often along it on her way from Hampshire by way of Kingston upon Thames to her brother Henry’s house in Henrietta Street or to one of the other houses Henry owned at different times.
The park has always been an untouched piece of wilderness. It has never been adapted or changed by agriculture. It has always been as it is to this day. It covers 2,500 acres. King Edward I who lived from 1272 to 1307 and who was also called Longshanks and The Hammer of the Scots, formed the park in the Manor of Sheen beside the Thames outside of London, as a hunting park stocked with red and fallow deer.
There are six hundred deer in the park to this day. Under Henry VII, who built a palace at Sheen beside the river, the park and the local town was renamed, Richmond. There is a mound or small hill in the park called, Henry VIII’s Mound, where the Tudor king reputedly would spy out likely deer to be hunted. In 1625 Charles I removed the whole of his court to Richmond Palace because of the Black Plague raging through London.
He used the park for hunting too. In 1637 Charles had a wall built around the park, which is still there. The local people were obviously chagrined. Charles passed strict laws about the King’s deer being poached and the wall was an extra deterrent.
Richmond Park has a strong emotional connection for Marilyn and me. Not only does one of the campuses of Kingston University, where me met as undergraduates, back onto the park and on numerous occasions we scaled the brick wall between Kingston Hill Place, my halls of residence , to get into the park at night but it has great significance to the birth of all our children. Now I know what you are thinking, but you would be wrong. By the way, Kingston Hill Place used to be the home of Lilly Langtry or Jersey Lill, as she was known, the mistress of Queen Victoria’s eldest son Edward VII.
Getting back to the great significance to the birth of our four children. Well, it first happened with Sam, our eldest. The day he was due to be born, 1st July 1986, Marilyn showed no signs of going into labour. We sat around and sat around waiting for something to happen and obviously it wasn’t going to.
We decided to drive to Richmond Park and go for a walk beside Penn Ponds, two beautiful small lakes right in the middle of the park with reed beds and groves of massive ancient oak trees nearby. The ponds have a large variety of water birds, swans, mallards, Canada Geese, coots and many other varieties of ducks inhabiting them. They nest in the reed beds along the edge of the ponds. Richmond Park has been classified as SSSI status. That means it is a site of special scientific interest. Sam was born a week later on the 8th July.
When Marilyn [Tony’s wife] was pregnant with Alice we followed the same routine, a day beside Penn Ponds and then after that, we did the same with Emily and Abigail in later years.
All of our children were born late. You might think, weren’t you taking a chance? What if Marilyn had gone into labour on the predicted date? Ah well you see, Kingston Hospital is right next to Richmond Park. All we needed to do was climb over the wall. No sorry, let me get that right; drive a short distance to the maternity department.
There are a number of beautiful houses inside Richmond Park. White Lodge,in the centre, is the home of The Royal Ballet School. All our great ballet dancers train there from an early age. In the film Billly Elliott, that is where he went to train as a dancer. White Lodge is an elegant 18th century pile that used to be a country house belonging to Edward VII.
Pembroke Lodge, situated on a high hill overlooking the River Thames and Kingston upon Thames is situated on the edge of the park. It used to be the home of Lord John Russell, a prime minister during the reign of Queen Victoria. He was the grandfather of Bertrand Russell, the philosopher. Bertrand Russell spent much of his childhood at Pembroke Lodge.
Pembroke Lodge is now a café and restaurant. It is a great experience to sit on the terrace of Pembroke Lodge on a summers afternoon looking out over the Thames sipping Earl Grey or Lapsang Souchong, and eating a scone with clotted cream or homemade strawberry jam.
Richmond Park is wonderful to take long walks. There are many massive ancient oak trees. Some must be four or five hundred years old. A few have been scarred by lightning strikes.
You will see deer grazing in amongst the vast areas of bracken. An unexpected sound and sight are the flocks of green parakeets that have inhabited parts of Richmond Park.
The story goes, whether myth or reality , is that in the 1940’s Treasure Island was being filmed at Pinewood Studios. They had parakeets on the film set and some escaped and began breeding in Richmond Park. A similar story centres around the making of The African Queen with Humphrey Bogard. It too was being filmed partly at Pinewood. Again the story goes that parakeets escaped from that film set too. I don’t know how much truth there is any of these stories but there is, without doubt, a colony of green parakeets living and breeding in Richmond Park. I have had a few land and rest in the branches of the apple trees in my own garden.
There are a number of plantations that are fenced off from the rest of the park so deer cannot eat the shrubs and trees growing in them.
The Isabella Plantation is the most wonderful example of them all. It is a woodland garden at it’s best. In the spring when the bluebell woods are carpeted in blue it lifts the spirits and is a joy to behold. Many of the bushes and shrubs situated in glades and beside the sparkling stream that runs through the plantation create an emotional and spiritual experience.
The Isabella Plantation is one of those places on earth that sooths the spirit and fills your eyes with beauty. To sit on the grass and listen to the birds and look at the camellias, magnolias, azaleas and rhododendrons is wonderful. The plantation is run on organic principles and because of this it is home to a great variety of insects and mini beasts.
Here is a quote from the web site dedicated to the Isabella plantation.
“In spring, visitors can see camellias, magnolias, as well as daffodils and bluebells. From late April, the azaleas and rhododendrons are in flower. In summer, there are displays of Japanese irises and day lilies. By autumn, guelder rose, rowan and spindle trees are loaded with berries and leaves on the acer trees are turning red. Even in winter, the gardens have scent and colour. There are early camellias and rhododendron, as well as mahonia, winter-flowering heathers and stinking hellebore.”
The present plantation was developed by George Thomson , the park superintendent from 1951-1971.
Some recent news for you Hollywood A list watchers. My local paper had a small news item. Brad Pitt has been spotted taking pictures of the deer in Richmond Park recently. He is over here filming at the moment. He and Angelina are living in a house, a grand house I am sure, by the Thames at Richmond.
Outside the Richmond gate is a large elegant brick building called The Star and Garter Hospital. It is a special hospital for aged military servicemen and women from all wars. They also have the poppy factory next to it. We celebrate the dead of our wars on November 11th every year which was the First World War Armistice Day. The fields of Picardy, in Northern France, where much of the terrible deadly trench warfare took place, were covered in wild poppies in the Spring. Somebody thought the poppies represented the drops of blood from the dead who lay in those fields so the poppy was taken as the British symbol to remember the dead.
In Flanders fields the poppies blow
Between the crosses, row on row,
That mark our place; and in the sky
The larks, still bravely singing, fly
Scarce heard amid the guns below. – John McRae
Just down the hill from the park, in Richmond town, there is a house called Hogarth House. It was in this house that Virginia Woolf lived with her husband Leonard for many years and began The Hogarth Press, named after the house. Virginia Woolf, in her diaries, often mentions going for walks with Leonard and friends in Richmond Park.
More on the topic:
Wow, simply breathtaking! It’s just amazing that a piece of history (as grand as 2,500 acres of park land) has been so well preserved! Just one more thing to add to my ever-growing list of English places to visit…
And thanks for the laugh about scaling walls while in labor!! ;D
Thanks for the wonderful tour in words and pictures.
Hi Vic,
Quel endroit magnifique! J’adore toutes ces photos du parc! Tout est reposant! Nous sommes embarqués vers la rêverie et la poésie!
Stunning!
Bises,
Dentelline
This is one of the most beautiful photo essay/blog posts I have ever read. It brought back memories: I once visited White Lodge when researching Queen Mary, who gave birth to the Duke of Windsor there. I could hardly concentrate on the old photograph books they kindly brought out, because I was so charmed by getting to visit the ballet school at the same time!
I have not yet had the opportunity to visit Richmond Park, but I shall certainly do so! Your pictures are beautiful, and your writing is so eloquet. Thank you very much!
Great photo essay, Tony. It reminded me of another nearby attraction – Kew Gardens and Newen’s Bakery. So, I looked on line and found the Foodnetwork recipe for Maids of Honor. I can’t believe the original had frozen puff paste – from the time of Anne Boleyn? Does Newen’s serve these curd pastries with puff paste? It seems so. Pate brise would be a better guess.
That was a wonderful post, Tony and Vic! I’ve always wanted to visit Richmond Park and the surrounding towns. This makes me want to even more. Until then, I’ll be revisiting this post!
Thanks for the lovely tour.
Thank you for all your lovely comments.
Any time any of you would like a walk in Richmond Park, give me a call. Tea in Pembroke Lodge, spying out red and roe deer and just walking in a wonderful place.
All the best,
Tony
Give your thanks to ‘ . . John Lewis, a Richmond brewer, who took court action to establish once and for all that the public enjoyed the right to enter the Park on foot, after the then Ranger, George II’s youngest daughter, Princess Amelia, had closed all the gates and admitted only those to whom she had issued a ticket. Charles I had preserved certain rights of way when he completed the enclosure of the Park in 1637.
In the 18th century, steps were taken to limit those rights, but it was Amelia who tried in the 1750s to abolish them. A 1754 law suit failed to convince the court that pedestrians and carriages had rights of entry. In the following year, finding himself physically denied entry on foot at Sheen Gate, Lewis tried to force his way in.
It was not until 1758 that Lewis’s case came to court, and he shrewdly pleaded his case on narrower grounds — i.e. not on the right of unlimited public access but more precisely on the rights of way that had been recognised since Charles I’s time. Lewis’s victory at the Surrey Assizes in 1758 resulted in ladder stiles being provided once more. These stiles consisted of steps on each side of the wall, with a small platform at the top; they were erected close to the gates, but had the advantage of being constantly available for use . . the 250th anniversary of the re-opening of the Park to the public on 16 May 1758 [was celebrated in 2008] . . ‘ (Friends of Richmond Park)
It is not the case that ‘The park has always been an untouched piece of wilderness.’ It is in fact a highly managed landscape and always has been. It is true that it has never been under the plough since it was enclosed 400 years ago, a mere fraction of the 12,000 years that have elapsed since ice retreated and the first forests grew.
During WW2 the Park housed an army convalescent camp; in 1948 the army left and it was used by Olympic competitors for the 1948 Austerity Games: the video at http://www.bbc.co.uk/archive/olympics_1948/12100.shtml is a charming reminder of how we were then.
Chris, the “pristine wilderness” was my remark – an American from abroad – not Tony’s. The rest of this beautiful essay was his. Vic
such a lovely, educational essay. your anecdotes made it personal and charming.
That was tremendously enjoyable – beautiful, educational and fulfilling. Thanks so much for sharing.
I love your photographs-have been to England twice-can’t wait to go back! Lovely writing! glad I found your blog! Blessings
Chris, thanks for all the extra history about public access.
Are you a member of the, Friends of Richmond Park?
Yes, you are right, it is a managed environment in the sense it has been managed to keep much of the natural environment that has never been under the plough. I realise that is a rather tortuous thought. White Lodge , Pembroke Lodge and the other cottages and buildings have obviously been constructed in the park . Pen Ponds have been created by damming and managing the watercourses, paths and roads have been built, walls put up and dare I say sign posts are everywhere and of course as I mention, The Isabella Plantation has been created, but it still can be described as” an untouched piece of wilderness,” in many ways. You just have to go there to understand what I mean.
Great piece and really great photos. All that *and* a Virginia Woolf tie-in — who could ask for more?
I walk past Hogarth House – now smart offices – most days & see the plaque to VW; her stay was not long, 8 years I think and she didn’t like Richmond which even more then than now is regarded as ‘too far out’ by true Londoners: it was to far away from her fashionable and intellectual Bloomsbury friends.
Hi Chris, aren’t you lucky to pass Virgina Woolfs doorstep everyday. The likes of Lytton Strachey, the biographer, Roger Fry, the art critic, Maynard Keynes, one of the worlds greatest economists, Duncan Grant the great Bloomsbury artist and T.S.Eliot the greatest poet of the 20th century have all stepped across that threshold. You walk in the footsteps of greatness, Chris.
Virgina Woolf lived in Richmond, as you say a quiet country retreat, compared to Bloomsbury because of her nerves. Hectic London was too much for her and made her ill, even though she was drawn inexorably to the literati and great minds that London provided. She herself was one of the greats too. She loved shopping in Richmond and often walked through the town to the station. She did go up to London a few times a week. She loved walks by the river and would go on her own to visit Marble Hill House. She and Leonard stood with some of the old soldiers in their Bath chairs on Richmond Hill to watch the fireworks to celebrate the end of the first world war. She often went walking in Richmond Park,
Tuesday 19th January 1915
“We walked in Richmond Park this afternoon, the trees all black and the sky heavy over London but their is enough colour to make it even lovelier today than even on bright days I think.The deer exactly matched the bracken.”
The next time you catch a bus to Kingston to go shopping think of Virginia. She often did the same thing too. I think she actually liked Richmond but was drawn to the rarefied literary life of London of which she was the head.She loved the countryside anyway. She and Leonard owned Monks House at Rodmell in Sussex which they often went to.
Beyond lovely! I have revisted this blog several times over the past couple of days just to look at the photographs. Thank you for sharing with us, Tony.
Thank you so much for such a lovely tour. I am impressed by how very long this land has been in conservation.
[…] Readers, A few months ago frequent contributor Tony Grant wrote a lovely post about Richmond Park in August. Recently, a man walking his dog lost control of his animal, who was not on his lead. […]
[…] forests, lakes, and abundant red & fallow deer. The topography in the park is fairly gentle. Jane Austen’s World has some nice photographs from Richmond […]