Jane Austen fans are familiar with the high-waisted muslin dresses popular during her adulthood. How many are aware that machine-made net or gauze became a “hot” item from 1810 and on?
“Net dresses were very fashionable and their popularity was spurred by new inventions. The development of machine-made net in the late 18th and early 19th centuries meant that gauzy lace effects were increasingly affordable either as trimmings or garments. The bobbin-net machine was patented by the Englishman John Heathcoat in 1808 and produced a superior net identical to the twist-net grounds of hand-made bobbin lace. It was so successful that women in the highest ranks of society, including the Emperor Napoleon’s first wife, Josephine, wore machine-net dresses. Initially, however, all machine nets were plain and had to be embroidered by hand.” – Victoria and Albert
Machine-made bobbin net was first made in France in 1818. Until this date, lace as it was made was known as old lace. After that date, lace is categorized as being modern.

Silver embroidery on net on Empress Josephine's court gown. Image @Madame Guillotine
Machine made lace made an appearance around 1760. The nets and tulles became immediately popular. Their arrival spurred the production of other silk lace cloths, which led to a general rise in popularity of the silk lace trade – until a machine was invented that could produce silk net lace as well.
In the 18th century the hand-made net was very expensive and was made of the finest thread from Antwerp: in 1790 this cost £70 per pound, sometimes more. At that time the mode of payment was decidedly primitive: the lace ground was spread out on the counter and the cottage worker covered it with shillings from the till of the shopman. As many coins as she could place on her work she took away with her as wages for her labour. It is no wonder that a Honiton lace veil before the invention of machine-made net often cost a hundred guineas. Heathcoat’s invention of a machine for making net dealt a crushing blow to the pillow-made net workers. The result is easily guessed. After suffering great depression for twenty years the art of hand-made net became nearly extinct, and when an order for a marriage veil of hand-made net was given, it was with the greatest difficulty that workers could be found to make it. The net alone for such a veil would cost £30. – A history of hand-made lace: Dealing with the origin of lace, the growth of the great lace centres, the mode of manufactures, the methods of distinguishing and the care of various kinds of lace, Emily Jackson, p. 170
The most popular European centers for lace making were located in France, the region known as Belgium today, Ireland, England,and Italy.
During the French Revolution the French textile industry had suffered and unlike in England, use of textile machinery had been non-existent. Emperor Napoleon stopped the import of English textiles and he revived the Valenciennes lace industry so that fine fabrics like tulle and batiste could be made there. – Regency Fashion History

Black net over gold gown, 1818. Image @Defunct Fashion
Between 1806-1810, net gowns embroidered with chenille embroidery became popular. Profits rose for the manufacturers as the price for the cloth plummeted.
In 1809 Heathcoat took a patent for his bobbin net machine. But the profits realised by the manufacturers of lace were very great, and the use of the machines rapidly extended; while the price of the article was reduced from five pounds the square yard to about five pence in the course of twenty-five years. – John Heathcoat and the Bobbin Net Machine, Samuel Smiles (1859)
By 1813, the bobbinet machine had been perfected. After 1815, gauze was used over satin evening dresses, with the fabric gathered at the back. By 1816, crepe, net and tulle were worn over evening wear made of satin, silks, velvets, kerseymere, satin, lame, and both plain and shot sarcenet.
La Belle Assemblee Court and Fashionable Magazine contains this description of a lady’s dress in Her Majesty’s Drawing Room in January 1818:
Hon. Lady Codrington.—Net draperies, magnificently embroidered in gold lama, in bouquets and sprigs, over a petticoat of white satin, with blond lace at the bottom, headed with a rouleau of gold lama; train of crimson velvet, trimmed with gold lama and blond lace. Head-dress gold lama toque, with ostrich plume, and diamonds.

1818 Evening Dress, June. La Belle Assemblée. ENGLISH. No. 1.—Evening Dress. Round dress of embossed gauze over white satin, with coriage of peach-coloured satin, elegantly ornamented with rouleau medallions and palm leaves of white satin. Mary Queen of Scots hat, ornamented with pearls, and surmounted by a full plume of white feathers. Negligé necklace of fine pearls, and gold chain beneath, with an eyeglass suspended. White satin shoes, aud white kid gloves.
Not every lady of that era was obsessed over bobbin net lace or tulle. Many began to publicly and proudly favor the old hand made lace.
…both in England and on the Continent and at Almack’s, the Assembly Rooms at Bath and Tunbridge Well, the chaperons would gossip of their lappets of Alencon or Brussels. Numerous were the anecdotes as to how this treasure or that had turned up having escaped the doom the rag-bag, which alas! was the fate of so much old lace during the muslin and net period. – Emily Jackson, A History of Hand-made Lace, 1900, p 48.
Machine made lace dealt a great blow to the industry of hand-made fabrics. In Tiverton in 1822, where once 2,400 lace makers worked, only 300 lace makers were still employed.

Evening dress with net overlay, 1818. Image @Old Rags
The Duchess of Gloucester was one of the few whose affections never swerved from her love of the old rich points towards blondes and muslins, and her collection was one of the finest in Europe. Lady Blessington, too, loved costly lace, and, at her death, left several huge chests full of it. Gradually lace began to be worn again, but it was as it were ignorantly put on, worn simply because it was again the fashion to wear lace, and lace must therefore be worn; the knowledge of its history, worth, and beauty was lacking… – Emily Jackson, A History of Hand-made Lace, 1900, p 48.
Sprigs beautified the machine-made net. It is said that Queen Charlotte introduced applique on net to support the machine net industry. Honiton appliques consisted of white linen thread sprigs mounted on the net, but black silk sprigs were applied as well. The black silk cost twice as much as the linen threads and soon went out of fashion.
The trade of lace making remained for several generations in some families, thus in 1871 an old lace maker was discovered at Honiton, whose turn or wheel for winding cotton had the date 1678 rudely carved on its foot –Old lace, a handbook for collectors: an account of the difference styles of lace, their history, characteristics & manufacture, Margaret Jourdain, 1908, p94-95

Detail of early 19th c. tamboured net shawl. Image @Vintage Textiles
Sources:
- Fashion is My Muse
- Black net overdress, 1817-1820, Liverpool Museum
- Tamboured net shawl, Vintage Textiles
- Red Gauze Dress With Chenille Embroidery: Museum of London
- Regency Mourning Fashions shows several net dresses for half mourning and evening wear.
- Costume photos from UK trip, 2006
- The Grove Encyclopedia: Net Lace
- Heathcoat’s Patent Lace Machine Model
- The Lace Dictionary: Exquisite Linens
These are beautiful! Thanks for such a terrific post. I never truly appreciated lace and netting before. I shall have to dress my heroines in more of it forthwith!
Thank you so much. The pictures of the netting are gorgeous.
Reblogged this on Ella Quinn ~ Author and commented:
From Jane Austen’s World
Thank you for mentioning my post on your blog. Most appreciated!
What a fantastic post! Thank you for this information and history. The pictures helped as well.
Now I’m really curious to see how they’re used in the period dramas…
Thank you for publishing this blog. I’ve learned so much and the pictures are wonderful!
Excellent and so interesting post. I have found out so much.
What a fabulous post! It was absolutely fascinating. Thank you!!!
Beautiful gowns.
Jane Austen mentions netting and writes of someone netting a gown. I had thought that the woman was tatting an over dress. However, now I wonder if she was embroidering machine netting for the over dress.
Nancy
that is very interesting
It must have been amazing to be able to wear these beautiful dresses.
As what normally happens when I read your blog, I went off looking for more reference material. This time it was to find an example of lace that was mentioned in Mrs. Gaskell’s North & South. I found THE QUEEN LACE published in 1874 http://www.cs.arizona.edu/patterns/weaving/books/qun_lace.pdf
Thought you might like to take a peek.
I love your blog!
Thank you for that fabulous link. What a great book! And for your compliment.
Yes, but think how easily they must have been damaged! So easy to snag those net holes… I’m surprised any of the gowns survived to be seen today…
Thanks for the excellent and timely post. I’m in the midst of choosing fabrics for a regency dress and had been considering an overlay, so your information and lovely pictures are very helpful in my planning.
Great info. I love lace and netting. Your pictures and history is a joy. I also thought of “North and South” when reading this info. like the person above. Thanks for the link by the way.
So gorgeous. I remember spending an entire day at the Lace museum in Belgium and it was simply overwhelming!
[…] Read an excerpt here and the rest of Vic’s fascinating look at Fashion at Jane Austen’s World. […]
Reblogged at http://www.tereseramin.com and noted it’s from here. This is perfect to go with the book I’m finishing up right now. Thank you, Vic!
Thank you, Therese, and Suzi Love. I appreciate your support and comments!
A fascinating history of lace and netting. Gorgeous pictures. My grandmother made lace and tried to teach me the art when I was growing up. Alas, I never quite got the hang of it!
Fantastic article. England has such an history of lacemaking. Particularly of the hand made kind, Midlands and Honiton in Devon for example in the 19th century. I always find bobbin lace a remarkable achievement, working on a pillow with hundreds of bone or wooden bobbins! The 16th & 17th centuries were the true hey day. Gorgeous ruffs and collars. So expensive to produce and worn by royalty and aristocracy. Paintings of the period show the lace in fine detail.
[…] March 20, 2012 by Vic Note: The dress on the cover of this book is made with the machine-made net overlay that I described in an earlier post on this blog. Click here to read it. […]
This is such an interesting post I am a genealogist researching a lace maker from Nottingham and this shows just why the bobbin net lace industry took off there.
[…] represented the advances made in machine made lace during the late 18th and early 19th centuries. (Click here to read my article about net lace.) Early 19th century dress made with embroidered black […]
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