by Brenda S. Cox
When Emma encountered Mrs. Elton visiting Jane Fairfax, “she saw [Mrs. Elton] with a sort of anxious parade of mystery fold up a letter which she had apparently been reading aloud to Miss Fairfax, and return it into the purple and gold ridicule by her side,”—Emma, Volume 3, chapter 16, Cambridge edition
If you’ve ever made yourself a Jane Austen-era costume, you know that a reticule is an essential accessory. These lovely small purses hung by a drawstring from the lady’s wrist.
In previous generations, wide skirts had allowed for two huge pockets, one on each hip, to hold essential items. But with the slim new Regency style, there was no longer room for pockets. So the pockets were externalized and made small and beautiful.
If you have a reticule, you realize that it doesn’t hold nearly as much as a modern purse. Nowadays we might put our phone and a credit card, driver’s license, and little cash in the reticule. But what did Jane Austen’s ladies carry in theirs?
Candice Hern recently gave three lovely presentations for the JASNA AGM*. She showed her collection of items an Austen-era lady might have carried in her reticule. First, she pointed out that Jane Austen would probably not have used the word reticule! This little purse was more often called a ridicule. This was the word used in ladies’ magazines of the time. That’s why, in the quote above from the original 1816 edition of Emma, Mrs. Elton has a purple and gold ridicule, not a reticule.
The Oxford English Dictionary lists sources calling it a ridicule from 1799 to 1999, and sources calling it a reticule from 1801 to 2004. So the terms were used interchangeably for a long time. Both words apparently came from the French word réticule for a small handbag. That word came from the Latin rēticulum for a small meshwork bag. Ridicule may have been a pun on the French word, though no one seems to know for sure.
The only time Jane Austen mentions a reticule, or ridicule, is in the above passage from Emma. Mrs. Elton slips a letter into her ridicule, which is, of course, a showy purple and gold one. Austen may have purposely chosen the form ridicule because Mrs. Elton is so often ridiculous! But modern versions usually change it to reticule.
So, we know that reticules could be used to carry letters. The Cambridge edition of Emma tells me that reticules might also hold handkerchiefs, snuff boxes, or sweets. However, snuff boxes seem to have been a gentleman’s item, so I doubt ladies would have often carried them. (Though some ladies did take snuff, though not as widely as men did.)
Candice Hern tells us that Regency reticules might range from only two inches long up to about ten inches long. So everything that ladies carried began to be made smaller. This created some lovely, tiny treasures.
Here are some of the items Candice showed us, with photos she kindly provided from her collection:
Reticule Essentials: the Fan, the Coin Purse, and the Vinaigrette
Fans
For hot evenings in the “crush” of a crowded ball or party, women carried fans. In Austen’s novels, she says Catherine Morland carried a fan at a dance. At Fanny Price’s ball, it seems her brother fanned her with his partner’s fan. Austen talks about her own “white fan” in a letter of Jan. 8, 1799.
Before and after this period, fans were about 10-12 inches long. (This is the length of the fan sticks; the open fan would be almost twice that in width.) But, to fit in the reticule, fans were made smaller, only about 7 inches long. They were most often made from ivory. Some were pierced with a tiny jeweler’s saw, to give a lacy effect. This was called brisé (pronounced bree-ZAY). Here are two of Candice’s (and my) favorites:

This gorgeous brisé fan is made of mother-of-pearl. It would shine and sparkle in a candlelit ballroom. The guard sticks, at each end of the fan, are made of faceted and polished steel. It also sparkles like jewels. Each stick is pierced identically, but the sticks are placed in alternating directions to form a pattern. c. 1810-1815.

The top section of this fan is painted rather than pierced. The birds and butterflies are made of real feathers. The flowers were created with tiny pieces of velvet.

On the lower part, sticks of three different pierced patterns are arranged to form a more complex pattern. The sticks are 6 ½” long. c. 1810-1820, or earlier.
For more lovely fans, see Candice’s website.
Coin Purses
Regency women didn’t have wallets like we carry today. In small reticules, they may have carried loose coins. But in larger reticules they kept coins in a coin purse so they could find them easily. Ladies usually made these purses, which might be beaded, knitted, or netted. In Pride and Prejudice, Mr. Bingley marvels at the accomplishments of young ladies, who can all “net purses.”
Some coin purses closed with drawstrings, while others had a metal closure at the top. The closure might be made of pinchbeck—a cheap metal alloy that looks golden—or other metals. Ladies also made coin purses for men. Austen’s favorite poet, William Cowper, wrote a poem thanking his cousin for making him a network purse. Gentlemen’s purses were sometimes called miser’s purses.

A lady probably bought the sterling silver frame (dated 1816) for this coin purse, then netted it with pink and silver metallic thread. It is 3 ¾” long, plus the tassel.
Vinaigrettes
If a woman began to swoon, in an airless room or when she learned something unpleasant, a vinaigrette was pulled out of a reticule and waved under her nose. These tiny metal boxes held a sponge soaked in vinegar and perfumed oils, with a grille over the sponge to let out the fumes. The grille might be dotted with holes, or might be pierced in a lovely design. Vinaigrettes were made of various materials and in many shapes and designs; those in Candice’s collection are silver.
The sponge might alternatively be soaked in something sweet-smelling, like rose water or lavender water. Many places in the Regency era stank, and a sweet smell could help the lady tolerate them.
Austen doesn’t mention vinaigrettes, but she does mention smelling salts, which were used similarly. Candice thinks these salts would actually have been a solution in vinegar, kept in a vinaigrette.
Regency vinaigrettes were tiny and delicate; Candice’s range from ½” across to 1 ¾” across.

This vinaigrette is made of silver but gilded inside, so the vinegar did not discolor the silver. It still contained a ratty sponge when Candice bought it. It could be carried in a reticule, or, with the metal ring, attached to a chatelaine: chains used for hanging things to a woman’s belt. Marked 1802, made in Birmingham.
Other Items That Might be Carried in a Reticule: Perfumes and Cosmetics
Perfume étuis
Perfume also counteracted bad smells. In Austen’s age, when bathing was not very common, perfumes were essential. However, perfume bottles were breakable, easily spilled, and too large to carry in a reticule.
So a lady would carry a perfume étui (pronounced ay-twee), a tiny container that could hold a glass vial of perfume and be fastened tightly shut. (Other types of étuis were used to carry sewing materials, writing materials, eating utensils, and other items; the word is French for any portable case.)
Perfume étuis were made of enamel, metal, tortoiseshell, shagreen, or other materials. Shagreen was a cheap option. It was shark’s skin, usually dyed green, with a knobbly texture. Shagreen étuis were probably used by middle-class women, while upper-class women used more expensive materials.

This painted enamel étui with brass fittings is about 2 ½” high. It held a tiny glass bottle of perfume with a screw-on metal top. 1760s to 1780s.

This shagreen étui is only 1 ¾” tall. It holds two tiny bottles of scent, so the lady can choose which she wants to use.
Cosmetic Cases
Some ladies also carried small cosmetic cases in their reticules. These were similar to today’s compacts. When open, the top was a polished mirror, and the bottom might contain rouge and/or lip color, and an applicator.

This 2 ½” wide cosmetic case still had traces of rouge in it when Candice bought it. The applicator brush is made of ivory. The outside of this case is shagreen (dyed shark skin), with silver decoration. 1770s or 1780s.
Next time, in Part 2, we’ll look at some other fun items a woman might have carried in her reticule. What else do you guess a lady might have carried?
*JASNA AGM—the Jane Austen Society of North America Annual General Meeting, which this year was held online in October.
Candice Hern writes Regency-era novels.
To find out more about her and her work, look for her on:
To see more of her lovely collections, go to her Regency Collections.
Links in the article above take you to Candice’s articles about specific items.
All images courtesy of Candice Hern, used by permission.
For more information, see also:
Fans: Essential Accessories, including the language of the fan
You can connect with Brenda S. Cox, the author of this article, at Faith, Science, Joy, and Jane Austen or on Facebook.
fascinating post.
denise
Wonderful and informative article.
Regency ladies did use snuff. Caroline Lady Holland did for example.
Loved your post.
Interesting insight into a lady’s reticule, thank you!
Excellent post! Agree with above comment that ladies indeed used snuff probably more than we like to think. Dolley Madison took it. Thanks to Candice Hern who has a truly marvelous collection. Her website is a treasure trove.
Thanks for the shout-out, Jennifer!
I really enjoyed this article! I remember making a reticule in high school home economics class. I made it to match the shirt I made out of a lovely white lace material. Loved the drawstring opening and had it for years.
Happy new year and thank you for all your wonderful posts
Laurie
Thanks for such a delightful and informative post! :)
Very interesting article, but I think brisé would have been pronounced the French way with a Z sound rather than S?
Yes, you are right regarding the pronunciation. Also, this is a modern term and would not have been used in Jane Austen’s time. You can see more of my brisé fans here: https://candicehern.com/regency-world/collections/fans/
Thank you all!
Snuff: Looking at this further, I see that some Regency ladies did use snuff, though it appears to have been much more commonly used by men. So it sounds like the above articles would have been more likely to be found in a lady’s reticule, but a snuff box would also be a possibility.
Pronunciation: And you’re correct, that should be a “z” sound in brisé. I’ve fixed it above, as well as the reference to snuff. Thanks, careful readers!
It was an excellent article. Since I, as a man, often wear a kilt for dancing, I have great sympathy for these ladies with their tiny reticules – sporrans are equally ridiculous.
Thanks for this . . so delightful to see these lovely treasures! Just realized that my everyday bag could be termed a reticule (reserving ‘ridicule’ spelling for Mrs. Elton’s gaudy version) — mine is 7 1/2 inches long and 4 1/2 inches wide, with decorative beading and appliqué work, and is big enough to (tightly) contain credit card, phone, perfume, liprouge, pencil, pen, and sunglasses, plus a few (not too many) coins. The only really anachronistic aspect is the optional, but very convenient, shoulder strap. Have always felt odd calling this much-loved item a bag or purse, reticule seems the mot juste.
Sounds like a reticule to me! :-)
Now to work it into conversation — “Wait! Just let me grab my reticule first,” and “Pass me my reticule,” should both be easy enough . . . hope to try them out at some point in 2021 in non-virtual context.
Meanwhile thanks again to Candice Hern for sharing her insights and lovely collection, plus giving me something Austen to think about.
Thank you for such an informative post, it was an absolutely wonderful read!
You’re very welcome, Nina, so glad you enjoyed it!