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Posts Tagged ‘Pastor James Wooforde’

This post features the recollections about a severely cold winter in 1794/95 by three Englishmen: Rutland squire, Thomas Barker, the Rev James Woodforde, a country parson whose diary (1759-1802) provides valuable first hand insights, and an event described by Matthew Flinders, listed in the Lincolnshire Archives. Interestingly, their observations, which read like today’s text messages, will intrigue the modern reader.

The weather in central England during the fall of 1794 started out warmly. Barker recorded:

“The autumn though wet was mild; swallows and martins did not go away till about October 18; the autumnal flowers continued till December, anemones were then in flower; winter and spring flowers were forward, and the leaves of the spring crocus appeared.”

Reverend James Woodforde came to Weston Longville, a small village north of Norwich, in 1775 and remained as rector until his death in 1803. During this time he kept a diary of his life as a country parson. While he mostly focused on parish visits, food, and the people and villages in his surroundings, he concentrated many of his observations on the weather from October to March 1794/95. His descriptions dovetailed nicely with Barker’s notes. In the next two passages Woodforde also mentioned the rains in October and flowers in November:

“The Rain that Fell yesterday [October 6] rose the Water at Foxford & East Mills quite high, Nancy very much alarmed and frightened therewith as it came almost into our little Cart.”

and

“Nov. 30, Sunday …. Mem. a Primrose in my Garden in full bloom, seen by myself and my Niece.”

Thomas Barker then referred to the sudden change in the balmy weather:

“But in the latter half of December the scene altered, and the frost began; it was a mixture of severe and moderate frost, falling and melting snows, and floods, with hard frost and breaks; the beginning of a very severe winter … for a quarter of a year, yet now without a thawing day or two now and then in January…”

Pastor Woodforde wrote a sequence of descriptions on weather events and how they impacted his life. One gains a visceral sense of how the intense and unrelenting cold invaded houses and affected the inhabitants down to their bones.

Dec 25, Thursday, X-mas day….It was very cold indeed this Morning, and the Snow in many Places quite deep, with an E. Wind. About 11. this Morning I walked to Church and read Prayers & administered the Holy Sacrament. Had but few Communicants the Weather was so bad….The Weather being so severely cold, which I could never escape from feeling its effects at all times, affected me so much this Morning, that made me faint away…..Mr Howlett after Service, very kindly offered to drive me home in his Cart, but as I was better I declined it, however hope that I shall not forget his civility….

and

Jan. 15, Thursday….Got up this morning very bad indeed in the Gout in my right foot….The Weather Most piercing, severe frost, with Wind & some Snow, the Wind from the East and very rough…I had my bed warmed to night & a fire in my bed-Room….Obliged to put on my great Shoe, lined with flannel.  The Weather very much against me besides.

and

Jan. 21, Wednesday….The last Night, the most severest yet, extreme cold. So cold that the Poultry kept in the Cart-Shed and obliged to be driven out to be fed….

Jan. 23, Friday….The Weather more severe than ever, it froze apples within doors, tho’ covered with a thick carpet. The cold to day was the severest I ever felt. The Thermometer in my Study, with a fire, down to No. 46….

and

Jan. 25, Sunday….The Ice in the Pond in the Yard which is broke every Morning for the Horses, froze two Inches in thickness last Night, when broke this morning.

The pastor also wrote that a terrible storm took the thatch off the barn and stripped the tiles from his roof. On the 28th he described a “very severe frost indeed. It freezes sharply within doors,” and he related the sad news of two women who “froze to death Saturday last going home from Norwich market to their home.” 

Early February provided a smidgen of hope:

Feb. 8, Sunday…..Weather much altered, very foggy and a cold Thawe, with very small Rain, all the whole day. I hope to God that now We shall no more have any severe Frosts this Year…

Woodforde’s hopes were premature, however. Thomas Barker observed that a thaw for four or five days from February 8 to 12: 

“…took away a great part of the snow, and made a greater flood than any remembered, which did more damage to the bridges all over the kingdom than was ever known yet without taking away all the ice and snow; the frost returned again as hard as before, and with a less break near the end of February …”

The Lincolnshire Archives provides a description from Matthew Flinders, who wrote about the abnormal winter and great flooding as the snow melted. His observations add dimension to Barker’s and Woodforde’s writings, for he referred to the misery that farmers and peasants must have felt. He also mentioned the war raging in the background, which affected all Englishmen during this period.:

“…This has been the severest winter in these climates known in living memory… the snow began at Xmas Eve  – and continued with intervals most of the time. I think I may say more has fallen than in the last 7 years together and several times more on the ground, than has been since the great snow in 1767 when it was a yard deep on the level… very great damage has been done on the breaking up of the frost by the floods – numbers of bridges being broke down, and large tracts of land overflowed – no such flooded known since the memorable year 1764. Great injury done to the farmers – much sowed wheat destroyed & the poor much distressed – tho’ there were very liberal subscriptions in many towns. This added to the distress occasioned by the War – has given the times an alarming aspect w’ch I hope God in his good time will remove.” [Lincolnshire Archives] – Extreme weather events in focus: White Christmases

The flooding was ruinous to the winter crops. Pastor Woodforde also worried that the poor people would suffer from the effects. 

More recently, John Kington from the University of East Anglia states that the cold in January 1795: 

…was exceptionally severe, it was not until Christmas Eve 1794 [as previously related] that the very cold conditions set in The frost then lasted, but without breaks, until late March. The cold was most intense in January, which resulted in the coldest January (-3.1°C) in the Central England Temperatures series (Manley 1974). –  The Severe winter of 1794/95 in England, Climatic Research Unit, University of East Anglia, Norwich

An article in The Guardian dated Jan 01, 2022 provides the following information about the cold’s impact on people:

The coldest January since 1659, when records began in England, was in 1795 when rivers including the Thames and Severn froze over. The temperature barely rose above freezing all month.

and

Country parsons, who fed poor people at Christmas, gave them a shilling each to buy food for January. Grain was in already in short supply because of a dry summer and hunger became so widespread that the following spring there were bread riots. (Read more on this topic later in this post.)

The thaw previously mentioned on February 8 by Parson Woodforde and Thomas Barker resulted in floods that devastated lands in Norwich, near the Pastor’s parish, but also farther west in Shrewsbury. Shrophsire Star.com features a facsimile of the news published on February 13, 1795. The following information are excerpts from that facsimile, which you can read in full at this link to the article

In consequence of the sudden thaw after so long a frost, the Severn has overflowed its banks to a higher degree than ever was known in the memory of man. This town is, therefore now nearly an island; neither the Mail-Coach or any other carriages could get out of town on Wednesday morning, the water being so deep at both the bridges….

and

…Great quantities of timber have been carried away by the violence of the flood; several houses are fell in, and the furniture entirely swept off;…the inhabitants….cannot leave their habitations but by boats; a number of horses, cattle and pigs have been drowned…

and

Great praise is due to several humane Gentleman, who were active in assisting the poor people whose dwellings were inundated. Several boats loaded with fresh meat, bread and cheese, etc. were sent for the relief of such poor persons who could not leave their habitations, and which was given to them thro’ their chamber windows.

The flooding did not reflect the full extent of the damage from the east of central England to the west, for the “thaw” did not last. A cold spell ten days later froze the Severn to such an extent that John Kington wrote: 

On the 23rd [of January], the Severn [river] was frozen and a printing press, after the fashion set on the Thames, was set up on the ice. 

The River Severn, which is the longest river in England, experienced thick frosts during the “mini” ice age of the 16th, 17th, and 18th centuries. By 1795 at least ten frost fairs were held on the Thames River. Communities along the Seven, while not as organized as those along the Thames, held frost fairs in 1620, 1622, 1795, and lastly in 1855. – Wyre Forest Net

Despite the hardships from the hard freezes, these “frost fairs” provided winter entertainments in the form of food tents, sports, and games. Paper souvenirs were printed on the ice. They all but shouted for posterity — “I was at the Frost Fair at the Severn in 1795!” These mementos could be simple or more elaborate, depending on the amount of money the fair goer could afford to spend. The image below of a Frost Fair on the Thames River shows a long line of revelers waiting at the printing press for their choices. Other images in the links provided below depict simple or more elaborate souvenirs saved by fair goers.

Screen Shot 2023-11-30 at 11.04.26 AM

Close up of a printing press set up on ice on the Thames River.The British Library, Printing on Ice

This link leads to four affordable paper souvenirs printed on a sheet. Click to view. This elaborate Frost Fair souvenir was printed in 1740. Click here.

In his Memoir of that winter, Pastor Woodforde did not mention a Frost Fair, but he continued to observe the weather in his diary. On Feb. 18 he wrote: 

Wednesday….Very hard Frost, with strong Easterly Winds, a black Frost*. Every Vegetable seems affected by it. A cold this day almost, as any this Winter. I felt it before I got up this Morning, pain within me. It froze very sharp within doors all the day long. Dinner to day odds and ends, but very good. Had a fire again in My bedchamber to night, tho’ I had left if off some time, bitter cold to night.

*a dry, non visible killing frost that turns vegetation black (Oxford Languages)

Feb. 20, Friday….This Day is said to be this most cutting this Winter. It snowed the whole Day, but small & very drifting. The cold this day affected us this day so much that it gave us pains all over us, within & without and were even cold tho’ sitting by a good fire….

and

Feb. 22, Sunday….Severe, cold Weather still continues, froze again within doors. In the Afternoon some Snow. I am afraid now that we shall have more of it–The New Moon being now three Days old, and no appearance of a change.

The weather was unrelenting. Pastor Woodforde went on to say that although he meant to make an appearance at church, the weather continued on so severely and with so much snow on the ground that he “sent word to my Parishioners that there would be no service.” 

His journal mentioned only one final entry in my edition of his memoirs regarding these severe winter events:

March 13, Friday….Ground covered with Snow this Morning, having a great deal of Snow in the Night. The Morning was fair but Air very cold. A 4th Winter….

A fourth winter indeed. Thomas Barker picked up the narrative:

… it continued into March. It was in general a calm frost, with vast quantities of snow coming and going, so that though it was pretty thick at times, it never lay so deep as it sometimes does. But perhaps some of the deep pits of snow and beds of ice were not entirely gone at the end of March.”

The effects of this cold weather on the populace did not end with a warming spring. 

“Grain was already scarce thanks to a hot and dry summer in 1794, but Britain was at war with revolutionary France, too, which disrupted imports and raised food prices even higher. The Gentlemen’s Magazine, a popular periodical from the time, warned of “unprecedented inclemency” – How British people weathered exceptionally cold winters, University of Liverpool Research News, 04 January 2021

Some rich landowners feared an uprising due to the scarcity of food, bread, and fuel. 

Land agent William Gould’s diary entry for January 21 1795 notes that he was instructed to give money, coal, beef and bread to the hungry around the Duke of Portland’s Welbeck estate in Nottinghamshire. Elsewhere in the county, Reverend Samuel Hopkinson bought peat turf (a kind of fuel) to distribute to the poor on behalf of Earl Fitzwilliam. – University of Liverpool Research News, 2021

Even with this ‘minimal’ support, the general populace suffered and bread riots ensued the following spring.

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Inquiring readers: Summer is my favorite time to eat vegetables – with corn succulently sweet, tomatoes bright red and juicy, blueberries plumb and flavorful, and oranges burst-in-your-mouth ripe. I’ve wondered for ages how people in centuries past stored, preserved, and prepared foods in a world without packaging, refrigeration, freezing, or canning. Out of necessity people ate foods that were fresh, and therefore nutritious and flavorful. This post discusses foods that were plucked, eaten, and prepared during the months of July through September (and beyond, depending on their preservation.)

Fantastic Hairdress with Fruit and Vegetable Motif 18th C, anonymous,French

Fantastic hairdress with fruit and vegetable motif, 18th c., anonymous. French. Public Domain, The Met Museum

Luckily, I found two websites that made my search for British food easy: one is for the seasonal foods of England at the The European Food Information Council. (See the list of fruits and vegetables below.) In that site I looked up fruits and vegetables in Great Britain, clicked on August, and received the following information on the food during this month. 

Fruits:

Bilberry, blackberry, blueberry, cherry, crab apple, elderberry, gooseberry, greengage, loganberry, plum, raspberry, redcurrent, strawberry, watermelon

Vegetables:

Artichoke, aubergine, beetroot, bell pepper, broad bean, broccoli, cabbage, carrot, cavolo nero, celery, chard, chili, courgette, cucumber, fennel, garlic, haricot bean, kohlrabi, lamb’s lettuce, mangetout, marrow, mushroom, onion, pak choi, pea, potato, radicchio, radish, rucola, runner bean, samphire, spinach, spring onion, sweet corn, tomato,  turnip, watercress

I also checked the National Trust site, which discusses foods in season in August  – July – and September. This site includes a more extensive list of foods, and suggests recipes as well. 

The foods listed in the EIFC are those available in Great Britain today. The variety of foods in Jane Austen’s day were different. I was curious to know which fruits and vegetables were readily available for a family in Steventon or Bath’s markets, particularly in late June through early September. For centuries, foods were imported into the British Isles through trade from far flung lands. Over time, the choice of produce increased, but which recipes were adapted by Austen’s contemporaries to take advantage of the influx of new spices and produce?

Eighteenth-century cookery books, such as Hannah Glasse’s The Art of Cookery Made Plain and Easy, provide vital clues, as do contemporary journals, such as James Woodforde’s Diary of a Country Parson. This man’s musings are filled with food references and dining habits. Both books provide colorful, real time descriptions of late 18th century dining habits. (I’ve chosen a time during Austen’s formative years, when her parents labored with family and servants in raising fruits, vegetables, and farm animals in Steventon.) Another good resource is Martha Lloyd’s Household Book, annotated by Julienne Gehrer, which discusses the recipes used by the Austen family and Jane’s close friend, Martha.

British food of yore:

This post concentrates primarily on fresh fruits and vegetables. Meat was plentiful for aristocrats throughout the year, and for the gentry, middle class, and landowners. (Rural poor suffered from the land enclosure acts (1604-1914), when communal lands were fenced off, which forced agricultural workers – who once fed their families in a communal fashion – to find menial work elsewhere.) This post does not discuss the difficulties the dispossessed found in finding food and work in cities, but focuses on Austen’s life and the people with whom she associated, and the food eaten by her social strata.

Renowned British food historian, Ivan Day, and Phillip Effingham, whose organization runs a Love Your Greens campaign, discussed the quintessential British vegetable in a 2011 article by BBC News. Food fads come and go, but Mr. Day chose the humble garden pea for its longevity in British food history.

“It grows easily throughout Britain, and has done for centuries. Its name dates from Chaucer’s time, when it was known as pease. In its dried form, the pea is the basis for traditional staples such as pease porridge. When eaten fresh, with little more than butter as a garnish, it was prized by Tudor kings and commoners alike as a welcome burst of bright green in summer.” – What is the UK’s national vegetable? – BBC News

Mr Effingham chose four vegetables: 

“Cauliflower, cabbage, carrots and onions. If I had to choose one, in terms of sales, versatility and year-round production in Britain, it would come down to the carrot …. Not the white, knobbly wild carrots native to Britain. He means the orange carrot, developed in the Netherlands during the reign of William of Orange.” – BBC News

As I researched information about foods eaten during the late 18th century, I found the following passage in Pastor Woodforde’s diary:

I read a good deal of the History of England today to Nancy whilst she was netting her Apron. Very dry again. I feed my Geese with Cabbage now. – Pastor Woodforde, July 24, 1781: Full text of “The Diary Of A Country Parson”

The cabbage growing season lasted year round, with planting scheduled in sequence. Therefore, the good pastor could feed fresh cabbages to his geese during a time of drought.

  • Summer cabbages: sow from late February/early March (under cloches or similar cover) until early May; transplant in May/June
  • Winter cabbages: sow in April/May; transplant in late June/July​
  • ​Spring cabbages: sow in July/August; transplant in September/October — Cabbages (RHS.org.uk)

Cabbage was also used in a Hannah Glasse recipe “To make Gravy for Soups, Etc.” She added two onions and a carrot, thus three of Mr Effingham’s choices were included. Mr Day’s peas were cooked in this manner: “If you have peas ready boiled, your soup will soon be ready made.” 

Hannah Glasse's recipe for making gravy for soups
Hannah Glasse’s recipe in The Art Of Cookery : Hannah Glasse : Free Download, Borrow, and Streaming : Internet Archive

Hannah also included a recipe of Peas Soup, which is so reminiscent of my Dutch mother’s pea soup. Her only addition was carrots, but Hannah’s recipe could be in my family’s recipe bank.

Peas Soup recipe

In a July entry in his diary, Woodforde mentioned peas and a gooseberry tart, in August he wrote of consuming mulberries and pears after dinner. The following passage from October 12, 1770, described the enormous amount of food he and his guests consumed in one day. Fruits and vegetables played a pale role against the copious servings of meat and liquor. Still, they were fresh. 

“Mrs. Carr, Miss Chambers, Mr. Hindley, Mr. Carr, and Sister Jane dined, supped and spent the evening with me, and we were very merry. I gave them for dinner a dish of fine Tench which I caught out of my brother’s Pond in Pond Close this morning, Ham, and 3 Fowls boiled, a Plumb Pudding ; a couple of Ducks rested, a roasted neck of Pork, a Plumb Tart and an Apple Tart, Pears, Apples and Nutts after dinner; White Wine and red. Beer and Cyder. Coffee and Tea in the evening at SIX o’clock. Hashed Fowl and Duck and Eggs and Potatoes etc. for supper. We did not dine till four o’clock — nor supped till ten. Mr. Rice, a Welshman who is lately come to Cary and plays very well on the Triple Harp, played to us after coffee for an hour or two . . . the Company did not go away till near twelve o’clock.”

The Parson’s fresh Tench, a fish that often substituted for carp, is rarely eaten today. (Wikipedia)

Little imagination is needed to understand why gout presented a common problem in the 18th century, for the condition is caused by excessive consumption of alcohol, meat, and sweets. The Pastor was a hardworking man, however, and on August 17th, 1770 he described a day of work, inserting comments about food and drink:

“Begun shearing my Wheat this morning and gave the shearers according to the Norfolk custom as under, a good breakfast, at ii o’clock plumb cakes with caraway seeds in them, and some Liquor, a good dinner with plumb Puddings and at 4 Beer again. N.B. the above are called elevens and fours’. Only Ben and Will my shearers of Wheat. Before the dew is off in the morn’ they mow Oats. My Wheat this year not above 4 Acres. They shear with sickles instead of Reap-Hooks. The form of them like a Reap-Hook but the Edge of it like a saw, and they do exceeding well. Will brewed this morning a barrel of Ale before he went shearing Wheat at 12 o’clock. – Woodforde

One can only imagine the calories the men expended before dining!

A food that Parson Woodforde mentioned repeatedly, regardless of the season, was plum pudding. Interestingly, this pudding’s traditional recipe is “made with raisins, currants and … suet — that’s the solid white fat surrounding the kidneys and loins of animals like cattle and sheep…”  – Plum pudding has no plums, and what it does have is odd. In other diary entries he also referenced Sugar Plumbs and Plumb Tart.

On May 1, 1772, the parson wrote, 

“In the evening Mr Creed, myself and the Counsellor [Melliar] walked down into Cary and saw the Fair, it being Cary Fair today I saw’ Miss Hannah Pew in the Fair and I gave her some Sugar Plumbs.”

Having never tasted a sugarplum, I researched the recipe.

“A 1668 British cookbook described sugarplum as being ‘small candy in the shape of a ball or disk; a sweetmeat.”  – A Sugar Plum is What You Make Of It – Washington Post

Sugar Plumps-description_image_Diderotcomfit1

Panning: adding layers of sweet which give sugar plums and comfits their hard shell. Visions of Sugar Plums, Jane Austen blog

The Historical Cookery Page provides detailed instructions for making sugar plums. It prefaces its recipe with this statement:

“The dictionary defines a sugarplum as a small round or oval piece of sugary candy. English being the flexible language it is, the name could have come from the resemblance to a small plum. Or it could have come from actual plums preserved in sugar, a relatively new idea in 16th Century England. Prior to this time sugar was so expensive that it was used very sparingly … In the 1540’s, however, sugar started being refined in London which lowered the price considerably … Preserving with sugar allowed the sweet fruits of summer to be enjoyed all year round, especially during the holiday season.”

plum variants

Screen shot of a few variety of plums

Plums were also known as a stone fruit, or a fruit with a hard pit, like cherries, peaches or apricots. The diversity of plums in color and size is astounding – over 2,000 varieties exist in the world. The plum traveled from China, where it was cultivated for thousands of years, and made its way across the world. With the various species grown in different climates, it was no wonder that nutritious plums (dried as prunes) were available year round. And yet … plum pudding had no plums!

As sailors discovered, fresh fruits in the form of oranges and lemons maintained health, preventing scurvy and promoting healthy gums and teeth, important to one’s health when dentistry was in its infancy and, frankly, barbaric. Plums (and many summer grown vegetables), attained peak season from July to August, although many were available from June through October. 

Pickling was one means of preserving fruits and vegetables for the long fall, winter, and early spring months. This pickling recipe from Martha Lloyd is all encompassing and can still be followed today:

India Pickles

Take half a pd: of Ginger put it in water one night scrape it & cut it in thin slices put it in a bowl with dry salt & let it stand till your other ingredients are fit. Take half a pd: of Garlic, peel & cut it in pieces put it in dry salt three days then wash it and put it in the sun to dry. Take a qt: of a pd: of Mustard seed bruised very fine; and oz: of Termrick [tumeric], a Gallon of the strongest vinegar, ptu these ingredients into a stone jar, let it be three parts full. Take white Cabbage, & quarter it keep it in dry salt three days, then dry it into the Sun. (to is scratched out.) Take white Cabbage & quarter it keep it in dry salt three days then dry it into the sun. So do Calliflowers, Cucumbers, Mellons, Peaches, plums Apples or any thing you of this sort. Radishes may be done the same way leaving on the young tops, also french beans & asparagus the three last are to be salted but two days & dried as the others. You need not empty your jar, but as things come in season put them in and fill it up with fresh vinegar. The more every thing is dried in the sun the plumper it will be in the pickle, if the pickles are not high colour’d enough, add a little more term’ric [tumeric] which makes it the colour of the india Mango. Never put red Cabbage or Walnuts because they spoil & discoulor all the rest. – Martha Lloyd, p 104

Preserving foods:

The methods of preservation Martha mentions in this recipe are salting or brining, pickling, and drying in the sun. Another method of preservation included boiling fruit in sugar or in a heavy syrup. If there was no sun, one method of drying was to place the fruit or vegetable in a cooling oven to draw out the moisture. 

Pickled vegetables and eggs were stored in glazed crocks, and soaked with vinegar (as Martha’s recipe directs), and were then covered with leather or a pig bladder. Sugared fruits preserved in heavy syrup was a costly method of preservation. Mold developing on top was scraped off.

Martha also mentioned curing, jugging, and potting. She made vinegar, jellies, and wine from fruits  in season including raspberries, currants, elderberries, and oranges. In addition to wine, her cookbook included beer recipes made with ginger or spruce. 

298px-Illustration_Ribes_uva-crispa0

Gooseberry (Ribes uva-crispa – botanical illustrations), 1885, wikimedia commons

Gooseberries were quite versatile. Martha’s recipes included the fruit to make cheese, wine, and vinegar. They were also dried, including grapes, and plums (which turned into prunes.) Gooseberry season started in June, but the fruit didn’t sweeten until July. They are suitable for cooking, but needed sweetening unless they were used as a savory. (Laura Mason & Catherine Brown, The Taste of Britain, British Food History)

The rich had additional methods of preserving food and eating fresh foods out of season. Orangeries, or a Georgian form of green houses, enabled fruits and vegetables to grow year round. Ice houses, dug deep into the ground, had thick walls for insulation. Straw or sawdust provided additional protection. Great blocks of ice were shipped from far northern climes and transported to grand houses all over England.

As a final comment, no matter how well vegetables and fruits were preserved, the best way to eat them was in season when they were freshly obtained from the earth, tree, bush or vine. 

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