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This Jane Austen blog brings Jane Austen, her novels, and the Regency Period alive through food, dress, social customs, and other 19th C. historical details related to this topic.

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Parisian Milliner’s Advice in 1801 to a Visiting Lady: Regency Fashion

June 26, 2011 by Vic

Early milliner shops were like our department stores, selling all manner of fashionable items. The image of a milliner shop in Paris shows the costumes we have come to associate with the era of Marie Antoinette. After the French Revolution, fashions changes drastically, for the French citizenry did not want to be reminded of the recent bloodshed or the ancient Regime. The rage in fashion was an imitation of the classical dress worn by the Greeks and Romans.

Dressmaker shop, 1775

The end of the 18th century witnessed a signal change in the style of women’s dress. The gown no longer consisted of two dresses, an under and an outer one. The formal styles which had prevailed throughout the century and brought into use stiff materials such as solid damasks, velvets, satins, and silks, were replaced by the fashion of the short-waisted clinging gown made of muslin and soft silk. This “Empire” mode characterized the dress of the first quarter of the 19th century. – The Encyclopedia Americana, Frederick Converse Beach, George Edwin Rines, 1902,  “costume”

Too Much and Too Little, or Summer Cloathing for 1556 & 1796

Parisians dressed in the new fashions were known as the “incroyables” (men) and the “merveilleuses,” (women.) These fashions were not at first admired and generally regarded as hideous. Caricaturists had a heyday making fun of these freaks of Fashion. British fashionistas shortly followed suit, as the cartoon by Gillray attests.

Monstrosities of 1799, Kensington Gardens, Gillray

Macaronis turned into dandies, and gently bred ladies wore clothes so thin and diaphanous, that the shape of their legs showed clearly through the skirts. The muslin disease (catching a serious cold or pneumonia) lasted for as long as fashionable young women wore thin muslin dresses with bare necks and arms in damp and drafty buildings.

Merveilleuse et Incroyable. The close up of the dress reveals how sheer the fabrics were.

In some instances, nothing was left to the imagination. In the satirical image below by Isaac Cruikshank, the ladies are shown wearing next to nothing. Satire took many forms in the late 18th century. The Lady’s Monthly Museum featured a dialogue between a lady visiting Paris and a man milliner. His answer is hilarious.

Caricature by Isaac Cruikshank

Dialogue Between a Lady and A Man Milliner at Paris

“Citizen, I am just come to town: –pray, have the goodness to inform me how I must appear, to be in the fashion.”
“Madame, ’tis done in a moment; in two minutes I shall equip you in the first style. –Have the goodness to take off that bonnet.”
“Well.”
“Off that petticoat.”
“There it is.”
“Away with these pockets.”
“There they go.”
“Throw off that handkerchief.”
“’Tis done.”
“Away with that corset and sleeves.”
“Will that do?”
“Yes, Madame, you are now in the fashion. ‘Tis an easy matter, you see.–To be dressed in the fashion, you have only to undress.” – The Lady’s Monthly Museum, February 01, 1801, pg. 126.

Definition of a man milliner: A man who makes or deals in millinery, that occupation having been at one time predominantly performed by women; hence, contemptuously, a man who is busied with trifling occupations or embellishments.

Louis-Léopold Boilly painted a gown so sheer that without a petticoat, her short chemise is easily visible under the delicate muslin.

The days of the Revolution (1789 – 1799) brought in simple fashions. Corsets were discarded, the waist became short and the skirt clinging, and cheap materials were used. During the Directoire, the women adapted the classic style, borrowing from both Greek and Roman fashions. These costumes were scanty, and frequently were split up the sides. The dresses were often transparent and worn without chemises. The gentlemen of this fantastic period were styled “Incroyables,” “Unimaginables”; the ladies, “Merveilleuses” and “Impossibles.”  The men wore an exaggerated copy of what had been previously called the English fashion.- Costume design and illustration,  Ethel Traphagen, 1918,  p 120.

Millinery shop in Paris, 1822

A milliner could carry possibly a thousand different goods, becoming the forerunner of the modern department store. At this point, the term “milliner” was tied to the Latin word “mille,” meaning thousand.

The 18th Century milliner might have offered a thousand goods but all shared the quality of being fashionable accessories. Wares could include shoes, jewelry, table service, clocks, hosiery, fabrics, shirts, aprons, cloaks, caps, hats, muffs and mitts. – The Millinery Shop, Colonial Williamsburg

Milliner doll catalog, 1820s. These dolls were dressed in the fashion of the day. Look at the above image for a sample size of a doll. Image @Christine LeFever: Dolls and Fancywork

More on the topic:

  • Why Petticoats and Chemises Were Worn Under Regency Gowns
  • Public Reaction t0 Rising Waists During the Late 18th Century: Regency Fashion
  • Mache Head Dolls of the Past

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Posted in 18th Century England, 18th Century France, 19th Century England, Fashions, Georgian Life, jane austen, Jane Austen's World, Regency Life, Regency Period, Regency style, Regency World | Tagged Directoire fashion, Empire gowns, Incroyables, Merveilleuses, Millenery shops, Regency Fashion | 9 Comments

9 Responses

  1. on June 27, 2011 at 02:33 Karen Field

    This was fascinating. I took the time to go back to read Why Petticoats and Chemises Were Worn Under Regency Gowns. Fashions of the late 18th and early 19th fascinate me. How culture went from what we would consider highly overdressed to even underdressed has intrigued me. I wouldn’t have thought cultural mores would have allowed for it. I guess I underestimate the impact of the French Revolution.


  2. on June 27, 2011 at 09:47 Serena Lindeman

    I really enjoyed this diversion into the history of my trade.


  3. on June 27, 2011 at 15:39 Wrenaria

    Fascinating. And I love that Louis-Léopold Boilly painting.


  4. on June 27, 2011 at 17:24 Debra Brown

    I often wondered why everyone seemed to have pneumonia. Although, knowing how the dresses were cut should have helped with that. I wondered how they kept their chests warm, and for the rest of the body I assumed that they had enough common sense to wear warm fabrics in cold weather. I guess I thought it was just me that needed a warm chest, and I would have worn a wrap..


    • on June 27, 2011 at 21:14 Vic

      Muslin disease did not last long. Long sleeves soon made a reappearance, and clothing became layered. Women wore shawls and caps, fichus, chemisettes, spencer jackets, and stockings and petticoats again.


  5. on June 27, 2011 at 19:21 sshaver

    Since all my female characters were wearing made-over flour sacks, I enjoyed the contrast, and the caricatures here are really funny!


  6. on June 27, 2011 at 21:43 Birdsong

    Greatly enjoyed the cartoons! Humor must have been in fashion too.


  7. on June 27, 2011 at 22:07 Trez

    Great information here and the links are also very interesting to read. Thanks for sharing with us.


  8. on June 29, 2011 at 13:48 Mary Simonsen

    I liked the sketch of the man in the milliner’s shop. He looked more interested in the fabrics than his wife.



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