My regular Jane Austen readers have been patient as I succumbed to Downton Abbey fever and began to cover events 100 years after Jane Austen’s death. Customs changed during that intervening century. Take the matter of dress. While proper Regency ladies changed their outfits from morning gowns to walking gowns when they went out, and changed into dinner dress when dining, by Victorian and Edwardian times the custom of a lady changing her clothes throughout the day had turned into a fine art. One could get by with no less than 4-5 changes per day. A woman who packed to visit a country estate was sure not to be seen in the same outfit twice. This meant that for a 4-day visit she would need at the very minimum to have her maid pack 16 changes of outfits. One can only imagine the work of a lady’s maid to keep all the clothes and unmentionables in perfect (and clean) condition. Such attention to detail required quite a bit of organization.
Morning dress, 1815. Ackermann plate. While she looked proper in her at home attire, this morning dress looks stodgy compared to the Edwardian teagown.
Corsets were worn all through the 19th century and into the early part of the 20th century. Women were constricted into these garments for most of their waking day, but there were times when they were free from these tight-laced garments. During the early 19th century, upper class women at home would wear comfortable (but beautiful) morning gowns. Dressing gowns were also worn. Such gowns were meant to be seen by the family and close relatives only. The moment a woman expected to be seen, she would change into more proper dress.
Cora, the Countess of Grantham, lived during a time when teagowns were all the rage. These beautiful ornate gowns had the advantage of being simply cut and worn without a corset. It was possible that for just a few hours she could relax comfortably before dinner.
They were generally loose-fitting and elaborately trimmed, and gave full vent to the dressmaker’s or couturier’s skill and taste for theatricality. Tea-gowns were influenced by historical styles from eighteenth century Watteau-pleats, to renaissance hanging sleeves and empire waistlines and quite often, all of them at the same time. Never has so much love and art been invested in such an arguably unnecessary garment. All kinds of informal garments including tea jackets, peignoirs, dressing gowns, combing sacques, morning robes and dressing jackets also had their place in the leisured Edwardian lady’s wardrobe, all of them beautifully decorated and almost all of them now obsolete. 1900-1919: The Last Age of Elegance
American dancer and actress Irene Castle wearing a teagown, 1913
It had long been the custom for a lady to entertain both male and female visitors in her boudoir. (Read my article on this topic.) During the Regency era, dressing gowns were quite plain and simple compared to teagowns.
1810-23 dresssing gown. Image @Met Museum
At times the teagown gave rise to temptation, for a woman could entertain in private and not need the services of her maid:
Worn between five and seven oclock, gave rise to the French phrase ‘cinq à sept‘. This referred to the hours when lovers were received, the only time of day when a maid wouldn’t need to be there to help you undress and therefore discover your secret. – “Style”, The World of Downton Abbey, Jessica Fellowes
Early 19th century dressing gown. Image @Met Museum
Attired in her tea-gown, a soft flowing robe of filmy chiffon or fine silk, trimmed with an abundance of lace and often free of corsetry, the hostess must have been a tempting prospect for many men. Such loose gowns afforded women great comfort, ease of access and a tremendous sense of femininity. Little wonder then that whilst hemlines rose and fell the tea-gown, which had appeared in England as early as 1875 lingered on until the 1920s. – Edwardian tea gowns, fashion era
This Lingerie-style dress embellished with Irish crochet, c.1905 (below) can be seen in more detail on Vintage Texiles. Made of sheer cotton decorated with lace and ruffles, this sheer dress required a slip.
Edwardian teagown, 1905. Image @Vintage Textile
More on the topic:
Read more on the topic: Tea Gowns, Edwardian Promenade
Image of an early 19th century dressing gown at the Met Museum
Jane Austen's World 
Back at Season one – Paul Poiret and his non-corset gowns caused a sensation but it took a while for the rest of the fashion world to catch up…….
http://blog.fidmmuseum.org/museum/2009/08/my-entry-1.html
Patty, Poiret’s pants are the inspiration of Sybil’s wonderful outfit in Season 1! http://janitesonthejames.blogspot.com/2011/01/downton-abbey-lady-sybil-and-her-harem.html
I had noticed that this blog was going 100 years off track but I have come to appreciate it because it offers a great opportunity to realize that customs and fashions were far from static. Also I like DA quite a bit, as well.
Thanks for your indulgence, Bonnie. I plan to go on the Jane Austen track again after February 19th, when the final U.S. episode airs!
No rush, Master Vic. I’m sure they’ll appreciate the extra time to get dressed.
p.s. I suppose all of this would explain the exquisite table manners. I mean, a moment’s carelessness and one lousy drop of gravy on the shirt or blouse and six hours in the boudoir goes right down the toilet.
I believe the concept is not lost in current times! It may not be called a tea gown, but the inspiration is certainly apparent with the Shetland Shawl Dress in Teva Durham’s knitting pattern book, Loop-d-Loop Lace. see it at http://www.examiner.com/knitting-in-hartford/loop-d-loop-lace-picture?slide=41358321
I think it is a shame that tea gowns have disappeared. Without having the slightest desire to live in a corset, or have to change my clothes 4 or 5 days a week, the idea of having a beautiful, feminine, comfortable gown to wear for those *ahem* personal times is wonderfully appealing and (at least for some of us!) probably more becoming than the skimpier lingerie available today. A tea gown could be relished when alone with a good book or otherwise…
Indeed!
I’m quite glad I don’t need a ladies maid to dress me or undress me. (But, considering my roots, I’d be lucky to get a job as a ladies maid.)
However, reading in a tea gown seems more pleasant than watching TV in a Snuggie….
Careful with those “ahems,” Lauren — Tony Grant may be lurking.
I hadn’t thought of relish on the tea gown. But you’re absolutely right. That could be every bit as annoying as gravy on the blouse.
I know this has nothing to do with fashion, but stumbled upon this article on Architectural Digest. In 1979 the magazine went to Highclere Castle and did an article on the place. I thought you would appreciate it.. If you haven’t already.
http://www.architecturaldigest.com/homes/homes/2012/03/highclere-castle-downton-abbey-slideshow#slide=1
I love the white teadress! I NEED to learn how to make it.
More examples of fashion as bondage….We like your D.A. fever! But as a writer, it interests me that however much I enjoy this program, I don’t care about any of the characters as much as I care about anybody in a Jane Austen novel.
You realize it is DOWNTON Abbey, not DOWNTOWN? Our local PBS presenter made the same mistake in Seattle last season as well…to much sniggering and blushing on the next break… :)
I do, and I have spelled it correctly more times than not, as my sidebar attests. Attribute this lapse to a typing error and myopia when it comes to proofing my own work late at night. Error fixed.
When you’re alone and life is making you lonely,
You can always watch — “Downton” !!
When you’ve got worries, all the noise and the hurry
Seems to help, I know — “Downton” !!
Just listen to the dialogue on the station in your city
Linger on the sofa in your tea gown, it’s so pretty
How can you snooze?
The stars are much brighter there
You can forget all your troubles, forget all your cares
And watch “Downton” — things’ll be great when it’s
“Downton” — no finer show, for sure
“Downton” — everyone’s waiting for you!!
You may find somebody kind to help and understand you
Someone just like Master Vic, who has a gentle hand to
Guide you along.
So maybe I’ll see you there
We can forget all our troubles, forget all our cares
And watch “Downton“ — things’ll be great when it`s
“Downton“ — don’t miss a minute of
“Downton“ — this show is perfect for you !!
I love the beautiful costumes on “Downton Abbey” but I am surprised at the conservative hemlines. Were skirts shorter in the States during the same period? Although I understand that hems on evening gowns would be long, I would think that day dresses would have shorter hems by the war’s end. I own an extensive collection of American sheet music from the 1910s and the cover illustrations show hemlines at mid-shin by 1919 if not earlier. I also found a newspaper reference from around 1915 or 1916 noting that hems had gone up four inches within a single season.
[…] Downton Abbey: Teagowns and Relaxation […]
I love your blog. So much to see here!
I went shopping for a long gown the other day. Nothing at the shops was as beautiful as anything you’ve shared here. Time for a trip to the farmer’s market, where quality goods are easier to buy.
@ Nick, I adore that song. Your edit is a fine one :-).
Lovely dresses. I love the red dress that Lady Mary wears just before she is entertaining the Turkish diplomat!